True: You will not get an fps boost from a new psu.
False: Yet, if you have a cheap psu that tends to overheat, the rest of your computer will do likewise.
True: You don't "need" 500w, and a cheap 500 is worse than a really good 380.
False: 380 is still useless in a system that averages at or above that. No psu that I've found yet operates at 100% efficiency. You can't run a psu at max without problems. You should have an overhead (this is why I don't believe the lable on my psu)
A psu is like any other piece of computer equipment. You don't just look for one spec and base your purchase on that alone. Just like 1gb of value ram with 5-7-7-7 timings isn't the same as 1gb premium grade 2-3-2-5 or better.
You can get a 500w psu for $50, or a 350w for $200. I suggest counting up how much power you're currently using, think about what you want to add in the future, and plan for a good 100w past what you currently use, or at least 50w more than you think you'll need. But pay more attention to how constant the voltage is, efficiency, and of course whether it is even compatible with your motherboard and graphics cards.
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edit: not in responce to any one person or any one statement. Just an overall from discussion (along with some things possibly not said).
Wow, you sure know your computers specs. I bought a ATI video card(9550 I believe) and later I added a stick of 512 ram and it runs much smoother with no delays between maps and faster map loading. It's a base model computer with AMD and it's great.
but 500w will amke your computer cooler ? correct ?
cooler pcs mean better performing systems ? correct ?
i have a ****ty 280w no-name and it doing fine ruinning medium
but 500w will amke your computer cooler ? correct ?
cooler pcs mean better performing systems ? correct ?
i have a ****ty 280w no-name and it doing fine ruinning medium
Hello, I am an electrical engineer in a "Power Electronics and Electromagnetic Effects" department of an electronics company. I have disigned and built a DC-DC switching power supply before.
The rating of your power supply has nothing do do with cooling. A given system will draw a given amount of power, some of which will be turned into heat during the conversion from the 120VAC in your wall to the various DC levels in your computer. The efficiency of typical ATX (computer) power supplies is 75% which means 25% is dissipated as heat.
So if your computer draws 300W of power then you are actually drawing 400W from your wall with 100W being dissipated in your power supply (100 is 25% of 400). You can provide this 300W to to your computer with a power supply rated at 300W, 400W, 500W, or 1000W and the only difference will be the amount of money you spend. Only a power supplies efficiency will change the amount of heat created. This difference will be small and I doubt ATX supply efficiencies vary that much anyway. And dont worry about Power Factor Correction, it doesn't do anything that a consumer cares about and it is humerous to me that it is even listed as a selling point.
To get a really good idea of how much power you need you can collect the technical data sheets for all your components (if you can find them) and add up their power consumption. Or, you could just follow guidelines that are available all over the place. If you are a custom computer builder that will be keeping their power supply for future builds then it doesn't hurt to buy a nice 500W supply that will power everything the near future has to offer, otherwise a 300-400W will be fine in most systems.
Hello, I am an electrical engineer in a "Power Electronics and Electromagnetic Effects" department of an electronics company. I have disigned and built a DC-DC switching power supply before.
The rating of your power supply has nothing do do with cooling. A given system will draw a given amount of power, some of which will be turned into heat during the conversion from the 120VAC in your wall to the various DC levels in your computer. The efficiency of typical ATX (computer) power supplies is 75% which means 25% is dissipated as heat.
So if your computer draws 300W of power then you are actually drawing 400W from your wall with 100W being dissipated in your power supply (100 is 25% of 400). You can provide this 300W to to your computer with a power supply rated at 300W, 400W, 500W, or 1000W and the only difference will be the amount of money you spend. Only a power supplies efficiency will change the amount of heat created. This difference will be small and I doubt ATX supply efficiencies vary that much anyway. And dont worry about Power Factor Correction, it doesn't do anything that a consumer cares about and it is humerous to me that it is even listed as a selling point.
To get a really good idea of how much power you need you can collect the technical data sheets for all your components (if you can find them) and add up their power consumption. Or, you could just follow guidelines that are available all over the place. If you are a custom computer builder that will be keeping their power supply for future builds then it doesn't hurt to buy a nice 500W supply that will power everything the near future has to offer, otherwise a 300-400W will be fine in most systems.
very good read indeed,may i ask (if u no)
does a psu with Electrical Protection: Over Voltage Protection Circuitry.
Over Current Protection Circuitry.
Short Circuit Protection Circuitry.
acually protect or is this just another selling point
as im looking to buy one that has for a future upgrade i make at some point.
also would you recomend a psu with protection.
im running sli 2 6600's 256 on each card! i have a 600 w psu seems stable to me and bf2 still does the ctd whenever it wants... barely ever but still does it!
and i get 28-90 fps which is weird..... i should be getting constant 60+ but oh well!
very good read indeed,may i ask (if u no)
does a psu with Electrical Protection: Over Voltage Protection Circuitry.
Over Current Protection Circuitry.
Short Circuit Protection Circuitry.
acually protect or is this just another selling point
as im looking to buy one that has for a future upgrade i make at some point.
also would you recomend a psu with protection.
Over Voltage Protection:
If the output of the PSU goes higher than a preset level the powersupply will disable itself to protect your computer hardware.
Over Currnt Protection:
If the output current draw goes above a certain level the PSU will disable/limmit itself. This keeps the PSU from being damaged if the components draw too much.
Short Circuit Protection: An extension of over current protection. This shuts off the powersupply so that things dont start cooking in the event that power is shorted to return.
I dont think you can really get powersupplies without these basic protections now adays. They are very necessary and they protect the PSU's and the equipment being powered.
Over Voltage Protection:
If the output of the PSU goes higher than a preset level the powersupply will disable itself to protect your computer hardware.
Over Currnt Protection:
If the output current draw goes above a certain level the PSU will disable/limmit itself. This keeps the PSU from being damaged if the components draw too much.
Short Circuit Protection: An extension of over current protection. This shuts off the powersupply so that things dont start cooking in the event that power is shorted to return.
I dont think you can really get powersupplies without these basic protections now adays. They are very necessary and they protect the PSU's and the equipment being powered.
thanks just wanted ppl to no what exacally that means cus some older psu dont have that protection.but i recomended they make sure there new psu does.or if there making a new rig to look for one with the above things to keep there gear safe
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